Delicious Diversity
Lesbian chef Michelle Carpenter discusses the local dining scene
In North Texas, we love to eat out. Like really love to eat out. According to a new survey by Auguste
Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, Dallas-Fort Worth ranks third in the nation for restaurant spending.
On average, we spend 31.07% of our total food budget at restaurants, which means big business for local
chefs and restaurateurs. The fierce competition means success is far from guaranteed in the food and
beverage industry, but our chef Michelle Carpenter continues to thrive with two concepts in the Bishop
Arts District. And she loves the dining diversity in North Texas.
“The variety of food that is available is impressive,” Carpenter says. “While other
cities may have more acclaim for nationally famous concepts, we have a wider variety of quality ethnic
foods. We have Chinese/Dim-Sum, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, Ethiopian, Mediterranean/Greek/Turkish and
Indian.”
Carpenter opened her first restaurant, Zen Sushi, back in 2007 when the Bishop Arts District only
spanned a couple of square blocks.
“It’s now a major tourist destination today and encompasses blocks and blocks of small
independent businesses,” Carpenter says. “Fifteen years later, I opened Restaurant Beatrice
half a mile away.”
The melding of cultures in this part of town is a big reason why she does business here.
“In other parts of the country or other international cities in the world, diverse cities still
mean segregation. Those places are not integrated the way that North Oak Cliff is. In Dallas, we have a
gayborhood, we have a K-Town, an Asia Times Square and multiple Little Mexicos, but strolling through
North Oak Cliff, the neighborhood has not just tolerated, it normalizes intersectional
identities,” she says. “It is a special feeling to see true diversity in my dining rooms
because a fine dining Cajun or a sushi concept hasn’t historically been the space that made
everyone feel welcome. QTWOC, QTPOC, BIPOC, BIWOC, LGBTQ people can find their home here. It is a unique
pocket in the world.”
Carpenter’s bi-racial background (half Japanese, half Cajun) fuels her work as a chef.
“Opening Restaurant Beatrice (pronounced Bee-AT-russ) was an extension of who I am. I felt this
was a part of myself and my heritage that my guests did not know or even recognize,” she says.
“I spent a significant part of my life in Louisiana, and my Mammaw, Beatrice Carpenter —
whom the restaurant is named after — had a very powerful impact on how I understand and appreciate
food.”
Carpenter says she tries to operate her restaurant in alignment with how Mammaw ran her household:
whole utilization of animals, farm-to-table-to-farm dining by using whole ingredients, composting and
making nearly every last item from scratch, when possible.
“My first restaurant, Zen Sushi, pays homage to my Japanese heritage. Beatrice pays homage to the
other side,” she says. “Food is always more than food. The most interesting and memorable
creations are our most personal stories. On a menu, the food that has the most meaning is the food that
is tied to a story about the chef. Any food dish is not a ‘thing.’ It’s a carrier of
ideas, beliefs, culture, customs and traditions of a people and their homeland.”
She describes Restaurant Beatrice as fine dining without pretension.
“Our mission is ‘Bienvenue to All!’ and that is the foundation of where we operate
from. Great food and warm hospitality is for everyone. When you feel good, the food tastes good. Food
and hospitality are not mutually exclusive, and that feeling is reinforced because our restaurant
operates out of a converted Craftsman home,” Carpenter says. “Moreover, we made these
considerations in our design of the space. Our bathrooms are unisex and the signage indicates that they
are for anyone. Folks who are differently abled, who need a wheelchair, for example, are invited to call
us so that we can escort them into our dining room without any steps.”
She is also proud that she and co-owner Hanh Ho have achieved B Corp Certification for Restaurant
Beatrice, the first restaurant in Texas to accomplish this. According to the B Corp website,
“Certified B Corporations are leaders in the global movement for an inclusive, equitable and
regenerative economy.”
Carpenter loves that an LGBTQ+ owned and operated concept set a precedent for the entire state.
“We are one of six restaurants in the U.S. to currently hold this certification. A lot of reform
is needed in our industry,” she says. “We are setting an example of how restaurants can be
run where we make considerations for our community, guests and employees.”
Restaurant Beatrice tells a story of Louisiana, and Carpenter offers recommendations for how to
understand that story.
“I think the best way to experience any restaurant, including my restaurants, is to book a table
of four and order a little bit of everything to really understand our scope. Our bestsellers are our
staples: grilled oysters, fried chicken, shrimp and grits, and praline bread pudding, but the rest of
the menu changes based on the seasons, and seasonal dining is an essential part of our
programming.”
She recommends trying the fresh catch, too.
“Through our Gulf Only Seafood Program, we’re able to support a small fishing family out of
Galveston, and that is unique to what Beatrice stands for.”
Being visible and giving back to the local community has priority for Carpenter, too. She has been a
member of the Chamber now for a little over a year.
“LGBTQ+ folks have made tremendous contributions to the world, and they have done so in the face
of so much adversity, exclusionism, and oftentimes, in the face of legalized discrimination,” she
says. “The Chamber is needed because it offers a safe, supportive, inclusive space where our
orientation is the least interesting aspect of who we are because our talents, skills, abilities and
connections to one another are what is promoted.”
When recommending the Chamber to others, she offers three reasons to join.
“First of all, Tony’s M3 (Monday Morning Memos) are bonus entertainment. Second, everyone
at the Chamber has been very responsive and engaged when we needed help,” she says. “Third,
the Chamber is not a competitive environment. The folks we have met are motivated to help one another.
It’s worthwhile to meet other people who are genuine about helping you.”
To experience Carpenter’s story and culinary talent first-hand, reserve a table soon at Zen
Sushi (zensushidallas.com) and
Restaurant Beatrice (restaurantbeatrice.com)